Diamonds History and Shapes Chennai Tamil Nadu , INDIA

AESERA  Jewellery DESIGNING ACADEMY No 144/74, Eskay building, 3rd floor,  Greams Road, Thousand Lights Chennai,  Tamil Nadu India, Mobile: +91-9444100081,+91-9840689781,9840966467 seshu.gopal@jewelrydesignacademy.com Interesting Diamonds facts Diamonds are formed deep within the Earth: between 100 km and 200 km below the earth's surface. Diamonds form under remarkable conditions. The temperatures they are formed at are about 900 - 1300 C in this part of the Earth's mantle where diamonds form. The pressure is between 45 - 60 kilo bars. (kB) 50 kB = 150 km or 90 miles below the surface 60 kB = 200 km or 120 miles below the surface. Diamonds are carried to the surface by volcanic eruptions. The volcanic magma conduit is known as a kimberlite pipe or diamond pipe. We find diamonds as inclusions in the (rather ordinary looking) volcanic rock known as kimberlite. The kimberlite magmas that carry diamonds to the surface are often much younger than the diamonds they transport (the kimberlite magma simply acts as a conveyer belt). To ensure they are not converted to graphite, diamonds must be transported extremely rapidly to the Earth's surface. It is probable that kimberlite lavas carrying diamonds erupt at between 10 and 30 km/hour (Eggler, 1989). Within the last few kilometers, the eruption velocity probably increases to several hundred km/hr. All natural diamonds are at least 990,000,000 years old. Many are 3,200,000,000 years old (3.2 billion years) how do we know this? Age: from Carbon dating? No! C-dating only works for very young carbon. You need to use other radioactive decay schemes (e.g., uranium-lead) to date inclusions in diamonds. Inclusions used for dating are around 100 microns in diameter (0.1 mm). Diamond is the hardest material Diamond is the hardest gem on the Mohs hardness scale and graphite (also made from carbon atoms) is the softest! The rating of a mineral's "Hardness" or resistance to being scratched can be given using Mohs' scale. This was devised by the German geologist Frierich Mohs (1773-1839). Rating Type mineral Everyday equivalent 1 Talc Baby powder 2 Gypsum fingernail 3 Calcite bronze coin 4 Fluorite iron nail 5 Apatite glass 6 Feldspar penknife blader 7 Quartz steel knife 8 Topaz sandpaper 9 Corundum 10 Diamond Given that both diamond and graphite are made of carbon, this may seem surprising. The explanation is found in the fact that in diamond the carbon atoms are linked together into a three-dimensional network whereas in graphite, the carbon atoms are linked into sheets with very little to hold the sheets together (thus the sheets slide past each other easily, making a very soft material). How rare are diamonds? How many grams do you need to mine to get 5 grams of diamonds? (5g/1000 kg) @ 1000 g/kg = 5 g /1,000,000 g! But only 20 % are gem quality (80 % of these are sold in a "managed selling environment") and the remainder are used for industrial purposes (this material is known as "bort" or "carbonado" (carbonado is finer)). Basic Data Hardness = 10 Crystal System = cubic Refractive Index = 2.42 Dispersion = 0.044 Specific Gravity = 3.52 Treatments and synthetics Fracture filling of cracks and removal of inclusions. Surface cracks fractures and cleavages reaching the surface can be filled with a glass-like material with similar RI.. Identification: when examined with an optical microscope, filled stones will show: greasy appearance, flash effects, bubbles. Problem: Filling does not always resist polishing, heating, cleaning, age wear and tare Drilling of inclusions involves using a laser to drill into the inclusion. Solutions can be poured into the resulting "hair-width" diameter hole to bleach colored inclusions. This is compared to getting a filling in your tooth. Irradiation is used to change the color of the diamond. A common color produced by irradiation are greens yellow and blues, usually very intense and not natural looking. Synthetic diamonds are often yellowish in color (rarely used for gem purposes, more commonly used as diamond grit for industrial purposes. Modern synthesis of thin film diamond has other industrial applications). A 5 mm diamond (0.5 carat) takes over a week to grow. Synthesis requires: high pressure high temperature a special apparatus Synthetic diamonds can sometimes be distinguished from natural diamonds by the presence of flux inclusions (Ni, Al or Fe). Simulants - That try to simulate the appearance of diamond The distinction between a synthetic diamond (man-made diamond consisting of carbon atoms arranged in the typical diamond structure) and a diamond simulant (not a carbon compound with the diamond structure) is very important! In order of increasing R.I., the most common simulates are: YAG = yttrium aluminum garnet GGG = gadolinium gallium garnet CZ = cubic zirconia Strontium titanate Diamond. Another diamond stimulant is synthetic moissanite (Silicon carbide or carborundum) it was introduced to the jewelry market in 1998 it is one of the better simulates to date, but displays double refraction and may turn yellow under the heat of a low flame. Diamond Shapes Brilliant Cut: Shape Round from top view The most popular of all cuts the brilliant in its Ideal proportions is designed to give maximum scintillation, beauty and fire. It is comprised of 58 facets; the Brilliant cut follows more naturally the rough diamond crystal shape, and thus is most popular for cutting due to the beauty it returns, please see proportions for a complete explanation of why proportions for a round brilliant are so important for beauty and price. Princess Cut: Shape is square from top view The princess is one of the most popular fancy diamond shapes. The proportions are considered better the more square the stone is cut, with exact 90 degree internal angle on each corner; princess cut diamonds can also be slightly rectangle in shape. Optimum Shape is: Length to Width ratio 1:1 Acceptable are: Length to Width ratio 1-1.4:1 Oval Cut: Shape elliptical from top view The oval cut is also a particularly beautiful shape and if well proportioned gives great scintillation and fire. A well cut oval diamond can be almost as bright as a well cut Brilliant or round shaped diamond as the angles for cutting are closer to that of a brilliant cut diamond. Optimum Shape is: Length to Width ratio 1.5:1 Acceptable are: Length to Width ratio 1.5-1.75:1 Heart Cut: Shape is Heart from top view The heart shape is one of those special cuts that follow more human and emotional values. The technical benefit is that a heart shape diamond has a roundish pavilion and if well cut and proportioned can drive the sparkle and scintillation back out of the diamond. Optimum Shape is: Length to Width ratio 0.9-1.2:1, or which is most pleasing to the eye Marquise Cut: Shape Marquise of football shape top view The Marquise is a slender striking cut if well proportioned popular for up market designer pieces. The shape lends it self to being visually bigger with a bigger table spread for carat weight than traditional cuts, it has a line of beauty that can be used running up and down the finger. Optimum Shape is: Length to Width ratio 2:1 Acceptable are: Length to Width ratio 1.75-2.25:1 Emerald Cut: Shape like a rectangle with corners cut off, top view The Emerald Cut is a very bold and sold feeling cut. The Emerald cut uses a series of flat rectangular facets stepping down off the table to give it a unique brilliance, quite different to that of a Round or curved shaped cut. Optimum Shape is: Length to Width ratio 1.35-1.65:1 Acceptable are: Length to Width ratio 1.25-1.75:1 Trilliant Cut: The shape is like a triangle top view One of the more unusual cuts the trilliant displays a very sharp brilliance or fire if the diamond is cut to the correct depth allowing good scintillation. Excellent for Shoulder diamonds accompany a square or rectangular shaped diamond. Optimum Shape: Length to Width ratio 1:1 Acceptable are: Length to Width ratio 1:1 Pear Cut: The Shape is Pear top view The pear is another popular fancy cut it uses the base of a brilliant or round cut and extends it self to point , if well proportioned it gives a depth of scintillation to the point of the stone. A benefit in design if a longer look is required. Optimum Shape: Length to Width ratio 1.5:1 Acceptable are: Length to Width ratio 1.5-1.7:1 Radiant Cut: Similar to a rectangle or square with the corners cut off top view The Radiant can either be cut as a square or rectangle. The Radiant has a strong look with a unique type sparkle, differing from Emerald and Princess Cuts. Optimum Shape; For Square Length to Width ratio 1:1 Acceptable are; For Rectangle Length to Width ratio 1.5:1 Curved Trilliant Cut: Rounded Trilliant top view A softer look than the straight edge trilliant , a more unusual cut for a diamond , a bold fattish looking shape, deep and strong appearance , three soft points, three lines of curvature , nice if well proportioned. Optimum Shape: Length to Width ratio 1:1 Acceptable are: Length to Width ratio 1.1 to 1 Baguette Cut: Rectangle shape top view Coming from the French bread stick. The Baguette may be Cut long or more emerald shaped in proportions. As a main stone the proportions should be more like a rectangle shape. The Baguette is for those people who want a long stone, usually used are small baguettes to accompany different shaped diamonds. Unusual in Larger sizes. Optimum Shape: Length to Width ratio 1.5:1 Acceptable are: Length to Width ratio 1.5.-2.5:1 Tapered Baguette Cut: Rectangle shape or Tapered Rectangle top view Coming from the French bread stick. The Baguette may be Cut long or more emerald shaped in proportions. As a main stone the proportions should be more like a rectangle shape. The Baguette is for those people who want a long stone, usually used are small baguettes to accompany different shaped diamonds. Unusual in Larger sizes. Optimum Shape: Length to Width ratio 1.5:1 Acceptable are: Length to Width ratio 1.5.-2.5:1 Asscher Cut: Top view can be square to rectangle with an octagon eight sided look, the more square the better, but in some cases a longish stone can have a great beauty. Joseph Asscher was an eminent diamond cutter who cut the 3,106 carat Cullinan diamond. Asscher worked in Amsterdam. In 1902, his company, the Asscher Diamond Co., developed and patented the Asscher cut, a squarish step cut with an almost octagonal outline. This new cut enhanced the fire and light of the stone; it had a small table, a high crown, wide step facets, a deep pavilion and square culet. This cut became very popular in Art Deco jewelry and was a forerunner of the emerald cut. Recently, the Royal Asscher Diamond Co. resumed production of the original Asscher cut diamonds. Optimum Shape: Length to Width ratio 1:1 Acceptable are: Length to Width ratio 1-1.4:1

Chennai Jewellery Photography Design Catalogue Courses Tamil Nadu , INDIA

For Further details contact

Aesera Jewel Designing Training Academy,

No 144/74, Eskay building, 3rd floor, 

Greams Road, Thousand Lights

Chennai,  Tamil Nadu

India,

Mobile: +91-9444100081,+91-9840689781,9840966467

seshu.gopal@jewelrydesignacademy.com

Jewelry Photography

Jewellery photography is important and can be the key to the best presentation for jewelers. However, jewelry has many factors that make it tricky to photograph: variables like small size, reflective metals, the brilliance of diamonds and gemstones will create to the obstacles you will experience.

Whether you are selling jewellery online, creating post cards, or making a catalog, jewelry photography requires quality images and presenting them well will get you better results. The quality of your images should match or surpass the image that your customer sees in their mind.

It's no secret that advertising looks and works better with good photography and that online sellers with high quality images will sell more jewelry by showing a better look and feel to consumers. High quality jewelry photos will make it easier to sell jewelry by showing people the most realistic colors and sparkle. And, best of all, taking good jewelry photos does not have to be expensive or complicated, it just requires the patience to invest your time to get the best results.

Digital Cameras:Most digital camera sold these days will be good enough to create quality online images and even printed or poster sized graphics. Modern digital cameras offer many options and and one with manual setting will help you avoid or control many of the jewelry photography problems we will talk about here. A macro lenses or a macro feature creates the best image for close up pictures. Options such as F-Stop and Exposure settings will be a benefit to you when you have to work with too much or too little lighting. Also, most cameras have a “bracketing” sequence where the camera takes 3 images at different exposures with one press of the button. This option gives you the chance to view 3 variations of exposure in order to find the right amount of exposure needed to make your picture perfect.

Suggestions: The best thing you can do to improve your jewelry photography skills would be to take some time to learn about your camera and photography techniques, and then spend some money getting the right tools and equipment, like a light box or light tent, exposure board, and tripod. With some time and practice, you can learn how to take professional shots with true color gemstones, diamonds, gold, and silver. The time and money spent on your own photography skills will save you from paying the expensive photography fees you would pay if you had to hire a professional. It also allows you to have control over exactly how your products will be represented.

Positioning: Many jewelry designs will look good when taken from several angles to show detail. To hold the jewelry in place while photographing, you can use a small amount of bee's wax placed behind the jewelry. The wax can be wiped off easily with a cloth after the shot. If you get the wax on the gemstones, diamonds, or under settings, you will have to use jewelry cleaner to remove it.

Having a tripod will help ensure a stable and clear image. Without a tripod or stable camera mount, there is a greater chance that the image will be blurred by movement by the shooter. Tripods come in many types and sizes that should fit any universal camera mount. You will also get more stable images using your camera's self timer. The self timer is designed to leave several seconds to lapse before it takes the picture allowing you to move away and keep the camera and tripod as still as possible.

Lighting:Lighting can become a difficulty when photographing gold, silver, and other high polish metals because they have such high reflection properties. They can reflect over 90% of light, creating glare in your lens, and conversely, without proper lighting the jewelry will not photograph well.

Bear in mind that more light is not necessarily better in many cases. Using a flash will create more reflections and glare, resulting in parts of the jewelry are that are too dark and others that are too light. A way to avoid these lighting problems is to use a light box or light tent that will diffuse the light and balance the darker areas within the design. However, using only diffused light will inhibit the ability of diamonds and other gemstones to sparkle in the light. You should consider a direct light source that gives you flexibility to move and angle the light for the best fire in each gemstone.

Depth of Field: Advanced photographers will use manual settings to create quality images. When photographing jewelry, most of the pieces are very small and you want every part of the design to be sharp in focus, even at a very close range. To accomplish this, you should pay close attention to the depth of field as it will allow you to bring the entire design into focus at a close range. The setting on the camera to get a good depth of field requires a high F-Stop setting (F11 or F12) to bring both the close part of the jewelry and the far part into focus.

Adjustments:After taking your shots with your digital camera, you can modify the image with photo software to make it look its very best. By outlining, re-touching, color correcting, and working with shadows you can create a realistic dimension to give you that final touch for a professional look. You will also need to decide the quality and size that you will save the file at. For images used on the internet 72dpi is usually good, but for print or catalogs 300dpi is a common setting. The format that the file will eventually be published in uncompressed TIF for catalogs or print and JPEG or GIF for websites.

Conclusion:Knowing the obstacles and solutions to taking good jewelry photos can help your designs look better and ultimately sell better. Once you take a short amount of time to learn the skill of jewelry photography, you will have a great advantage over your competitors.